Interesting. I have never really read into full LODO, so I get the point now on the hot side. I have always been very careful about sealing off all O2 exposure on the cold side though.
Perhaps I'm missing something too, but why is there a concern about silicone tubing permeability during the mash, when the liquid surface of the mash itself is exposed to open air? At least that's the way I've always done it, and seems pretty essential in being able to monitor flow during...
I like your setup! Sorry that it's become an "issue" for potential buyers. Here in Boise there is a house on the market in a similar situation - it has a fully licensed commercial brewery in the garage. I went to look at it - pretty cool...
Whenever a keg kicks, I flush the line with first water, then a run of PBW, which I let sit for 30 min or so. Then another rinse with water before tapping the new keg.
If I don't have a new keg ready to go and the lines sit empty for a period of time, I will run Starsan through the beer line...
@micraftbeer - Here is the link to the hop tube:
https://shop.greatfermentations.com/product/ss-carboy-dry-hopper-300-micron
I am able to get approx 3oz of pellets into the tube, but I am thinking of getting another one so that I can pack them less tightly.
Yes, sorry if my steps seemed abbreviated.
By this point in fermentation, the Flex+ tank had self-carbonated to about 15psi, and my process was:
1- Close ball valve
2- Attach sight glass (two in this case)
3- Insert hop tube
4- Attach gas manifold
5- Attach CO2 line to manifold
6- Charge and...
Here's what I did after losing half a batch due to a loose hop mess jammed up my keg transfer:
I got a steel mesh hop tube and 1 1/2" ball valve instead of a butterfly valve. The length of the hop tube required the use of two sight glasses (which I already had), and a gas manifold at the top...