Recent content by itsnotrequired

family gatherings

this is a new requirement in the 2020 national electrical code. before that, it was just 125 volt 15 and 20 amp receptacles. same rules that apply to laundry rooms also apply to bathrooms, outdoors, within 6' of a sink, etc.

agreed. my panel is on a wall and i do not have handles, not a concern for me. maybe if i had a touchscreen or similar sensitive buttons it could be an issue but with industrial-style push buttons and selector switches, it would take a pretty gnarly action to inadvertently operate something.

i use cip for convenience more that anything else. set it and walk away for 15 minutes or whatever and wipe down, no scrubbing required. try the cip out with that sump pump, you will see a world of difference.

my pump is rated to 120 degree f, most cheapo pumps will have the same rating, plenty fine for hot water out of the tap. that has been my cleaning water for years, can't say i've had an issue where hotter water would have helped. yup, same routine here. my initial clean is plain hot water...

i basically built this: Another DIY Keg/Fermenter Washer it was built to clean kegs and carboys and while it still cleans kegs, easily adaptable to a conical. there is enough water blasting out the top of the pump discharge that i replaced that spray ball with a camlock connector, no impact...

likely a pump issue. i use a 1/3 hp sump pump from a big box store and that thing blasts. with your setup, a riptide is only going to get you maybe 5 gpm of flow. that sump pump is about 30 gpm.

you could do this but an easier approach may be to have only the blowoff cane on there during initial fermentation. once it stops blowing off (or never starts), swap it out with the new all-in-one spunding valve. no need to purchase an additional tee or valve. any little oxygen that gets in...

the issue with spunding is that people were removing the prv to install the spunding valve. if that spunding valve gets set incorrectly or clogs, pressure could build to the point that it may rupture the conical. the latest gen conical lid has an additional port such that you can use a...

the L2 running off the pass-through receptacle, over to the switches, any reason not to move that L2 to the neutral? i'm not seeing the advantage in having that hot. i guess with them being rated 240v the led may be dimmer.

@Bobby_M you ever get this straightened out?

this is the key question. if 80v between hot and neutral yet 120v between hot and ground, you have a loose/disconnected neutral. if 80v between hot and both neutral/ground, you got a hot conductor issue somewhere (or a bad source circuit breaker).

quick heads-up that page 1 and 5 of the pdf have a wiring error for the green power-on light on the door. it shows both wires for the light coming off the three terminal blocks that are jumpered together. these terminals are all at the same potential so the light will never turn on, even if...

yup. looking at this expanded photo, there is a smaller conductor coming off terminal 2 of the main contactor. wiring gets a little clouded but looks like it is running off the photo, assume it is to the power on key switch (that is where it needs to go). the other conductor coming off that...

you need 240v to run the g40 so you either need to get a dedicated receptacle installed or use an existing electric dryer or oven receptacle. you don't need to cut the cord and wire on a new plug, they make adapter cords to go from one configuration to another. below works with a modern...