Recent content by Herb3

You want a 2 pole 30 Amp contactor. 120V or 240V refers to the "control voltage" used to close or switch on the contactor for the current to pass through it. 30 Amp 120V Coil 2 Pole Contactor http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=129 30 Amp 240V...

The way I have seen these set-ups wired from the different drawings here is that both "Hot Legs" go to a contactor first. Then one Hot goes to the element. The other Hot goes to the SSR then to the other side of the element. I just finished punching all the holes in my control panel this...

I'm in!

9701 + 5 Belgian Pale Ale = 9706

Brewed a Belgian Pale Ale this afternoon from Brewing Classic Styles

I have been collecting my parts and hope to start my panel build in the next couple of weeks. Below is what I have planned for one of the Auber's 10 x 8 x 6 enclosuers.

5500W 30A 1 Pump E-BIAB Panel

Thanks. I am using a SSR for my freezer since it draws 11 amps at start up. Was looking for a smaller package for when I finally put it all in a nice case/project box.

Has anyone tried these relay boards? http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Relay-Board-for-Your-8051-ARM-AVR-PIC-Project-5V-/170871106216 Looks like they are rated at 15 amps instead of 10 amps for the SainSmart boards.

That's outstanding news Elkoe! I am glad to see that the Arduino BrewPi's will still be supported. Thanks again for the update.

Well mine was running fine till I made the mistake of updating it. I did try the Brewpi forums and went through all the documents before coming here to post. I got it somewhat working again by reverting back to my backup SD card. Thank goodness I made a backup,

I keep getting the below when I try to load the revC hex file: **** Arduino Program script started **** Settings will not be restored Devices will not be restored Checking old version before programming. Warning: Cannot receive version number from %(a)s. Your Arduino is either not...

My original plan was to have it like its wired now to show when the element is firing but the more I think about it I think it would be better to wire it so it shows the switch for the element is in the on position or replace that switch with a lighted push button like for the pump. Thanks!

Based on the help I received here is my current plan for a control panel. Box for 1/16 DIN controller 8x5.5x9 SYL-2352 PID 40A SSR External heat sink for 40A SSR 40A 120V coil contactor (3) Selectors switches (On-Off for Main Power, Alarm and Element) (1) Push button illuminated...

Yup it is a 10A rated switch so even with the corrected drawing looks like I can get by with only the contactor for the element. Thanks