If it was me, I would install a NEMA L6-30R Receptacle the controller and install L6-30P plugs on the the elements. I would just manually unplug and plug in to switch the elements. Easy and clean.
How fast can you turn down the element in manual mode? We do 10 gallon batches and are pretty quick with cutting the flame before it boils over. We are currently in the process of going electric and was debating about going manual mode on a PID or using a rheostat.
Yes...but I want to run both my sparge water element and my RIMS element at the same time which puts me over my 30amps NEMA connectors rating. Putting the RIMS tube element on a different panel at 120v, It's more versatile. I just plan on putting a GFCI plug on it.
I'm starting to think of changing my design because of this thread. Splitting mine into a 30amp 220v controller running the elements for the HLT and the Boil Kettle off a 3 way switch considering you'll never need to run both at the same time. And a separate 15amp 120v panel for the RIMS...
I'm not an electrician but the 15.6amp draw at 120v is just that. 15.6 amps on one phase. It doesn't divide the amperage. It only allows you at 16.4amps left on that phase to run at 80% of that 40amp breaker. It doesn't look like your gonna be able to. How much do you plan on drawing with...
It looks fine. Unless its a fermenting vessel, clean welds are just fine. When we first built my rig, I didn't back gas and have a ton of sugaring. Never ground it down, it looks like **** but never had an infection.
Purge. Use a pop can with the top cut off. Tape it to the backside of what your welding. Purge with the hose threw the fitting stuffed with steel wool. Although, proper purging will take you twice as long with setup to get the welding done. We are extremely anal about our welds. We clean...
The best beer I ever made is with a chamber. I couldn't believe the difference it makes. I ferment in my garage in the winter with a chamber and use the lightbulb paintcan trick. Works great!