Recent content by cluckk

There are just too many variables. Efficiency is a big determining factor. Get the software or use one of the free programs. Then most likely you will still be off on gravity until you zero in your extract yield and learn how to squeeze the best efficiency out of your unit.

I do a double brew in two different ways. The easiest is with a parti-gyle where I mash really large with nothing but pale malt then steep specialty grains to make two different beers from the same mash. For this I use one MLT and two burners and kettles. I also have a second MLT so I can heat...

Time will mute hops to a degree. Is it a beer that will take well to long aging. How long do you plan to lager? Other than blending, as above, the place to adjust bitterness is in the brew kettle.

You described it as, "It's almost like an caramelized, burnt syrupy taste on the tongue as an aftertaste (maybe it's a heavy honey maltiness)--it's hard to describe." My first thought is to ask what you are using for a brew kettle and for a burner? How hard are you boiling, etc. Boiling way too...

This is something that is a personal choice for each brewer. Some guys feel it makes their beer more clear to use a hop spider or other system to keep the hop residue out of their wort. Others feel their beer clears just fine without worrying about it. When you brew, if you notice your beer is...

Get your water profile or start with RO water before making adjustment. Then use something like the Bru'n Water to calculate your additions. Just dumping in Gypsum without knowing its effects on your actual water is not wise. As for whether you add in the Mash or the kettle is really up to you...

High bitterness with a flavor of strong coffee, roast and light licorice taste. The mouth is full and silky. The aroma is a mixture of hops, chocolate, roast and a note of alcohol (11.8% ABV). Carbonation is low.

I use Lactic Acid, Epsom Salt, and Calcium Chloride and Canning Salt depending upon the profile I am going to use. I looked up Laramie's water quality report, but the latest one I found was from 2011 and seemed to only cover contaminants. When you get you report post the results and we'll be...

Um...I think you win for most original :D

Get yourself on of these. It's a very worthwhile investment. Some do drop it right into the fermenter but there are two things to keep in mind. (1) You need a fermenter with an opening that allows you to retrieve your hydro. (2) You can't degass your sample--you'd have to degass the whole batch...

(1) I'm pretty sure the author is speaking of adding the dextrose to the boil. (2) He recommends an alternative of underaerating the yeast to stress them. (3) The yeast he mentions are good choices for more of the banana esters. I think you are toying with the possibility of bad things when you...

I carbonate naturally in the keg all the time and use corn sugar--though I have also used brown sugar. If it were me, I would bottle it.

Boiling does far more than sanitizing. For one it drives off DMS. Lots of guys do partial boils and then top off with water. This can also be done with all grain. You just need to adjust your grist to include enough grain to give you the gravity units in the first three gallons pulled. You can...

Use the things Darwin18 pointed out. At this point you only want to get some head (wait that didn't sound right). I mean you want your beer to carbonate, without bottle bombs or bug farms. Don't pour it back in the bucket, that will increase the likelihood of oxidation. Open each, drop in the...

If you can't use a lighter color crystal you should just use less. Also, I agree with the guys about increasing the rye. I didn't mention it earlier because you said you wanted a low amount of rye flavor. To me it is very hard to have too much rye flavor. My rye pale ale uses almost 23 percent...