peebee thanks I think. brewing tomorrow adding 11 ml of CRS and 10 gm of AMS, hoping it will be drinkable........... (half campden tablet before the CRS)
Peebee - this is going right over my head so simple question what should I do with this water to make a 4% pale bitter, hardness as CaCO3 228 Ca 80 - SO4 107 - Cl 65 - Mg 9 - Na 39
thanks
I cool the wort and then jug it into a stainless steel saucepan with lid, measure the OG and pitch my hydrated safale 04 yeast, after 5 to 7 days I bottle and leave for 4 weeks, works for me but what do I know, I have only been brewing for 54 years.
do you know anybody who works in any sort of laboratory - they will have a master calibration thermometer, just put yours next to it for 0 20 40 60 80 100
I am a BIABer. I thought about lifting the bag, allowing it to drain. Then I acquired a second Burco. So I run off the liquid and use 4 litre jugs to fill number 2, and then boil. There is always some very fine solids left in the mash vessel - using the lift and drain approach would mean boiling...
wash your glass under the hot tap, cool it under the cold tap, shake to remove excess water, do not use a tea towel or similar. This will tell you if the problem is with your beer, or the bottles you bottle it in. After cleaning your bottles normally, rinse them under the hot tap. This will tell...
I find vitamin C useful in yeast starters - years ago I made 2 identical starters and added vit C to one - it definitely got going quicker - so OP was saying slow to get going - so I said add vit C and nutrient - but if recommended amount of nutrient already added don't bother....
At the end a little bit of baking soda is added to neutralise the acid.
why neutralise acid, then add acid - I use 5 gm citric acid, a kilo of sugar, and 200 ml of bottled water.