Recent content by BeantownD

Bummer. It worked for like month. I don't mind spending $20 here or there, but I hope I just got a bum unit. Constantly replacing things isn't right, especially electrical things.

Hi all, can you give me some insight on this error code? My controller was working fine for about a month and I just went to check in on my latest batch to discover my best freezer was cold and the heating element wasn't operational at all. The buttons don't work at all either. All I get is the...

In!

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in! In, thanks!

@aggiebrewster i recall reading a thread on here a while ago about that concern and someone took the liberty of getting in touch with the folks at Rubbermaid or Gott. the conclusion was that there is little to no possibility of leaching. The water doesn't get to a temperature high enough to make...

@aggiebrewster i recall reading a thread on here a while ago about that concern and someone took the liberty of getting in touch with the folks at Rubbermaid or Gott. the conclusion was that there is little to no possibility of leaching. The water doesn't get to a temperature high enough to make...

Water heater supply line

inside view of a round cooler spigot

1/2 2 piece fully ported Brewhardware.com ballvalve

Bulkhead

Thanks for the quick replies!

I have a 30A 5500W system I'm building and have run into a stumbling block. I'm wiring up my panel and have a 240V indicator light that will turn on when the contactor for the element is switched on. Im using 10AWG on the element side of the contactor-but the yellow spade connectors seem too...

Thanks for the input guys! I will forge ahead and not worry about drilling a hole.

I'm planning an STC-1000 addition to a fridge so I can use it as a ferm chamber. What I don't understand is how to get power to the inside of the fridge for a heat source (bulb/heatlamp, etc). I had the thought of drilling though the wall of the fridge but was wondering if there was a better...